River Cafe Cookbook Green

Emphatically yes, must be the answer. The River Cafe phenomenon has always been inspirational, if not aspirational; and the new book is packed with astoundingly good, simple recipes and ideas. It is constructed round the appearance of individual fruits and vegetables in the garden or the market. Perhaps in part to distinguish themselves from the rather many cookery writers who have previously adopted this approach, Gray and Rogers work through the year month by month rather than by season. Thus May brings apricots (Apricot, Lemon and Almond Tart, Apricot Jam Ice-Cream), asparagus (in Risotto, with Anchovy and Milk Sauce, in a salad with gulls' eggs), broad beans (in a Minestrone), melons (Melon and Lemon Sorbet, Melon Marinated in Valpolicella with Vanilla), spring carrots (Braised Spring Carrots and Artichokes, Carrots Marsala) and spring onions (Peas Braised with Spring Onions, Spring Onion and Thyme Pizza). So it goes on, beautiful, simple, delicious. And if our carrots aren't quite perfect, well, we can have a word with our greengrocer, or join an organic box scheme. Or we can just aspire. Not the least achievement of Gray and Rogers is to restore to this simple food the magical allure it possessed when most people knew it only through the early books of Elizabeth David. --Robin Davidson

The book focuses on vegetables and fruit, and each recipe is sectioned according to season of the year, the motivation being that fruit and veg is best when harvested in their own season. The idea is to promote a concern for how food is grown, with focus on organically grown produce, and with that, I would imagine, promote the concern about transport and year-around harvesting issues.

All recipies are Italian, covering soups, pasta, antipasti, salads, deserts, sauces, pizzas, drinks, and more. How about a chickpea pancake with rosemary or a bruschetta with puffball and field mushrooms with tomato and thyme for starter, Penne with asparagus carbonara or a focaccia stuffed with gorgonzola and marjoram? Melon marinated in valpolicella with vanilla or red wine sorbet with crushed strawberries? Or, mmm, Chocolate ginger cake?

The book has over 200 recipies, and if you have access to a good farmer's market where you can get things like a variety of cabbages and mushrooms, fresh herbs, artichokes, figs, and pumpkins, this book will come in handy. The pictures promise greatness without being overly fancy.

I think I will go make some rosemary bruschetta, or perhaps figs, buffalo mozzarella and basil...


Another invaluable classic from Rogers and Gray   August 8, 2001
 23 out of 23 found this review helpful

If you, like me, adore Italian food and have, again like me, had access to and loved Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers previous books don't think that there is nothing further that they can add to their third Italian cookery 'bible'.

In 'River Cafe Green' (aptly named and you'll soon understand why), Rogers and Gray divide the book into 12 sections, one for each year. In each month there are sub-sections featuring whatever fruit and vegetables are best around that time and how you can use them to their full potential. Never have I found such pleasure in cooking as I have this year, not just because of the standard of food the duo enable you to produce, but also because of the enjoyment I have had in using home grown, seasonal ingredients.

Basics such as stocks, sauces, rich pasta, and crispy pizza dough are given as in the last two books but many of the dishes have very novel ideas and flavourings. Try the spaghetti with tomato and ginger and you'll see what I mean. The risotto recipes (particularly if you use homemade stock) will enable you to produce a rice dish worthy and often better than a lot of what you will get in a restaurant. The puddings are, as usual, wickedly wonderful. The recipe for cherry foccacia (an unusual variation for a summer pudding dish) is garaunteed to WOW your friends over a picnic lunch.

Having said this, some of the ingredients are slightly obscure and hard to access (unless you live in Italy or very near a good Italian delicatessen!!) but hunt around as if you can get hold of such treasures as aged balsamic vinegar, it is worth it, if expensive.

Verdict: a great follow up to the other books, and speaking for myself I hope they come up with a red, pink, purple, and orange book as well!


Excellant....   May 28, 2000
 5 out of 9 found this review helpful

Another wonderfull book, by some very talented people. With great ideas and recipes which are delicious, it is definately one for the shelf.